Noobie Davis hardware question

[Bull Winkus]

Edouard, you can get about 6 mos. out of the battery alone, as observed with the temperature transmitter, which doesn't have the solar cell. However, with the solar cell, that can be a couple of years. Since it is on the roof, the longer the better, as far as I'm concerned. 

Xair buddy, you get quite a bit of lead wire (50' ?) with that anemometer. You can mast the instrument on the apex of the roof, at a point where you have the best wind measurement, and mount the transmitter box in the nearest sun spot close to the ground. I think as long as it gets 4 or 5 hours of sunlight, it will serve its purpose. Think about how many cloudy days its got to make it through in the winter time. Just be sure to secure the wire real good so that it's not flapping around in the breeze.

 

[Blicj11]

Edouard, you can get about 6 mos. out of the battery alone, as observed with the temperature transmitter, which doesn't have the solar cell. However, with the solar cell, that can be a couple of years. Since it is on the roof, the longer the better, as far as I'm concerned.

I concur. I accidentally ran my unit on battery by forgetting to plug the solar panel back into the ISS control board after I moved my anemometer last summer. I got not quite 6 months on battery alone. I have gone 7 years without changing the battery when my solar unit was plugged in.

[xairbusdriver]

I learned, the hard, cold, and wet way, that I want the roof mounting and access much easier and safer! More importantly, I learned that we need some major water-proofing and siding repairs. About 6+ years ago, we noticed some water dripping from the master bedroom ceiling. Quickly I decided something was wrong!! In the image below, you can see the "dog house" extension I referred to in post #43. At the left end of that extension is a wall that comes just short (12 inches vertically and horizontally) of the valley of two roofs and a downspout for its roof. When we get a strong wind from the north, along with lots of sleet, freezing rain, and a couple of inches of snow, plus some long periods of way below normal temps, that crowded and shaded area gets covered by an ice dam. Naturally, when the frozen stuff starts thawing it piles up behind that dam. Those conditions are rare, in these parts, but if the collection gets high enough the liquid can then follow the siding until it gets behind the under all the roofing layers and finds the bare wall and roof joint, and then ceiling of that bedroom.

I spent a good 45 minutes very gingerly crawling, sitting, scooting, shoveling, and moving slushy stuff sheets of ice from the valey and the wall/roof intersection. Lost my grasp on the shovel and it demonstrated what would happen to me if I wasn't careful. SWMBO was resting in the bed below me and said she would have immediately been out to help me, should I have been the one that slid off... I felt sooo reassured that I decided not to mention that my nice clean bluejeans had roofing grit and asphalt on the seat! She said she would have known I had fallen because there would be no more noise of my "ice breaking" activities.

I'm sure you 'yanks' have better designed roofs and methods of de-icing. The experience re-inforced my concerns about climbing up the roof, however. The image below shows where I plan on mounting the mast/pole for the anemometer, that hasn't changed. The anemometer kit will be mounted on the very gently sloped roof of the "dog house" where it can face southward. I will also modify an aluminum ladder to 'hook' over the peak of the single-story wing that has the three-car garage and laundry room (right side of the image). Getting to that ladder is easy with the extension ladder I already have.

Even though the roofs are steep (12/12 pitch) from that 'removable ladder' to the west wall of the 'dog house' is only a single step and I'll be jambed between the roof and the wall. Moving a few feet south in that juncture, I will be able to reach the anemometer kit to replace batteries, if needed. I can even move a few feet further (south) and get on the very gently sloped roof of the 'dog house' if I need to access the anemometer itself. The anemometer comes with 40 feet of cable, the distance is much less than that.

However, I would appreciate suggestions on securing that rather delicate cable to the run it makes over the composition shingles (about like 25 grit sand paper!). Obviously, I don't want the wind whipping it back and forth on that rough surface; it wouldn't do the shingles any good either having the grit removed! Perhaps a nice bead of roofing tar?

BTW, "A" marks the location with the least restricted precipitation area and least shadows year round. Again, this is the back of our house, the north side of that infamous 'south bound mule'.
[removed link to the now castly photobucket.com site]

[Bull Winkus]

? I got not quite 6 months on battery alone. I have gone 7 years without changing the battery when my solar unit was plugged in.

Yeah, Blick, but you're closer to the sun than most people. 

[Blicj11]

Why not just mount the anemometer atop the ridgeline of the roof where your removable ladder is attached? Looks like it would be a much shorter cable run.

Yeah, Blick, but you're closer to the sun than most people.

You're right Herb. I'm so close it has affected my judgement and caused my hair to fall out.

[Bull Winkus]

Blick, is that what causes that? I might have to quit going up on the roof then!
 

[elagache]

Dear xairbusdriver, Blick, Herb, and WeatherCat station design consultants,

I learned, the hard, cold, and wet way, that I want the roof mounting and access much easier and safer!
. . . . .

So sorry to hear about your harrowing ordeal!  We are all learning about new climate extremes in our corners of the United States.

The anemometer kit will be mounted on the very gently sloped roof of the "dog house" where it can face southward. I will also modify an aluminum ladder to 'hook' over the peak of the single-story wing that has the three-car garage and laundry room (right side of the image). Getting to that ladder is easy with the extension ladder I already have.

Can you give us an idea of the distances involved?  It sure looks to me like you could easily run the anemometer transmitter to some point where you could service it on the ground and not have any ladder requirements at all for routine maintenance.  Extending any of the data cables is really very easy.  The Davis extension kits use scotchlok connectors which are a snap to use.  Here is a video on how to splice on You-Tube:

http://youtu.be/gHW6ilSzJVY

You don't have even strip the wires, never mind solder.  So if that's the reason you are reluctant to put the anemometer transmitter in a more accessible location, put your mind at ease!

However, I would appreciate suggestions on securing that rather delicate cable to the run it makes over the composition shingles (about like 25 grit sand paper!).

In my latest station upgrade, I ran PVC conduit to run the anemometer, rain gauge, and solar radiation sensor data cable extensions from one side of the house to the other.  I'm not sure how to secure PVC pipe to your roof, but PVC pipe would certainly protect the cable and should be tough enough to last a long time.  I suppose you could take the risk of using conduit clamps that are intended to to secure PVC to a wall and screw them carefully into the shingles.  If you put a ton of silicone sealant into the holes before inserting the screws, that should prevent water for getting into the shingles.

Hope that's something to think about.

Cheers, Edouard 

[Bull Winkus]

Xair buddy, here's one promising method of securing that wire.

[Blicj11]

Xair buddy, here's one promising method of securing that wire.

Herb, once again, you are a genius. I like the fact that this method does not require a roof penetration.

[Bull Winkus]

I can't take the credit for this one, Blick. All I did was search for it. 

[xairbusdriver]

 Wow, Bull, the quarter that comes with those clips will sure help pay for some nice extras!!! Wonder if that roofing goop comes in colors? I can probably get enough granular out of the gutters to sprinkle them on the goop before it sets up... Thanks for the idea! PVC sounds like a winner, also!

The included 40' cable will be way more than needed, so no cable splicing/finger slicing needed!

While I was complaining about accessing the mast/pole, i couldn't see the correct 'tree for the forest'! The gently sloped roof could be a good location, even easier to reach than the peaked part. It might get a little wind blocking/disturbance when the wind is from the ESE or more easterly, but my location choices are all affected by trees, houses, roofs, etc unless I get above 50 feet. And then I'd have no idea what the wind out the door might be!

The 'removable ladder' is only used when there may be a need to actually get to the anemometer or the solar array. When not in use, it could be put under my wife's side of the bed... mostly, and the 'uprights/added legs' would stick up high enough to keep her from falling off the bed! Two birds with one stone!!

Thanks for the great ideas!!

[xairbusdriver]

Got a OK from SWMBO... sort of... she reeeely didn't like the idea of a miniature Eiffle Tower on the roof! I tried to sooth her fears by assuring her that there would not be an elevator nor lights on ours. She's just not sure about the comments from the neighbors, and I have been on the HOA board recently. She reminded me that I have a Christmas gift that will cover ~70% of the costs.

[Blicj11]

Good report. Good outcome. You'll love it.

[elagache]

Dear xairbusdriver, Blick, and WeatherCat station design consultants,

Got a OK from SWMBO... sort of... she reels didn't like the idea of a miniature Eiffle Tower on the roof!

If she is concerned, you might show her photos of other stations that are installed in that way.  For example here is Steve Morris's setup:

http://athena.trixology.com/index.php?topic=969.msg8497#msg8497

Here is Reinhard's setup:

http://athena.trixology.com/index.php?topic=969.msg8522#msg8522

Here is how Blick setup his station:

http://athena.trixology.com/index.php?topic=969.msg11647#msg11647

If SWMBO is still reluctant, you might reconsider your installation scheme and look again at something based on a flag-pole.  I went ahead a photographs the installation in our neighborhood:



Sorry the photo isn't that clear because I didn't want to disturb the folks with the station, but in a way it really makes the point - you can hardly spot the anemometer and there is nothing at all on the roof.  This installation is similar to Randall's:

http://athena.trixology.com/index.php?topic=969.msg8585#msg8585

Except that the pole is right up against the house so that there is a brace to stiffen the pole and unlike Randall's pole, this one is black anodized so that is much less conspicuous.  Anyway, a bit for food for thought.

She reminded me that I have a Christmas gift that will cover ~70% of the costs.

  . . . . . . Don't be so sure!!  Don't forget the WeatherCat forum consulting fees . . . and yes we do bill at a hourly rate and round up to the nearest hour! . . .  

Cheers, Edouard 

[xairbusdriver]

Great shot Edouard! I'll show her that! Here's one I just took to help her see (no pun intended, of course) how easily it could completely hidden from view!
[removed link to the now castly photobucket.com site]
The biggest problem now is to train the bird to fly around every time she goes outside...[/center]

Actually, I have pretty much decided to mount the pole on the wall on the right-hand side of that upper story, "dog house" (just to the right of the bird's tail). From the street, only the pole and the anemometer will be visible. I think a 10 foot pole can still get the anemometer at least 6 feet above all the roof within ~7 feet and at least 4 feet above the highest peak to the SE. A 10 foot pole will have at least 2 feet in the double-Y wall mount brackets. <GNS Wireless.com> or this more adjustable type from <ROHN>. I'd still use those 'patch kits/pads' under the lag bolts!

Question (May qualify as a dumb one!): Have any of you tried 'camouflaging' the pole; light blue/white/grey and maybe 'dull-coat', also