HDR almost superfluous?

[elagache]

Dear WeatherCat shutterbugs .  . .

You may remember my enthusiasm for my new Canon EOS 70D camera was in part because it has an internal implementation for the High Dynamic Range algorithm that uses multiple photos and stitches the images together to enhance extremes like good old 35mm film.  I had informed everyone that I had turned on the HDR mode on my camera - alas, I didn't understand how it worked and so I had not.  Finally, I figured out how it works and it alas a bit clumsy.  The camera takes 3 different pictures apparently moving the mirror each time.  So the process is slow, slow enough that it is difficult to hold the camera steady during all three photos.  Interestingly enough, the real solution would be better digital sensors with enough dynamic range to compare well with film.

Not knowing that I didn't have HDR running, the images coming from my camera were still extremely good.  After finally figuring out how to use the HDR mode, I've been doing some comparisons and this camera almost doesn't need the HDR mode at all.  Here is an example of a pair of sunrise photos.  Here is the first photo, no post processing:



You can click on the photo to get a high resolution image to check over carefully.  Here is same scene taken with the HDR post-processing:



The image is a little smaller because the camera as an "auto alignment" mode to compensate for movement of the camera during the 3 photos.  Still, there is very little difference at all and I'm not sure which of the two images I like better.

The only situation where the HDR algorithm seems to come into its own is bright colors like spring flowers or fall foliage.  Here is a example of our Acacia tree in bloom.  This is the first photo using the camera alone:



Here is the same exposure with the HDR post-processing:



It seems to me that the yellow flowers are just a bit more intense on the HDR version of the photo than the single exposure above.

Nonetheless, it is clear that the engineers have come a long way to getting digital sensors to perform more comparably to film

Cheers, Edouard 

[Blicj11]

Nice photos. HDR makes a difference. It's even more noticeable on a lesser-quality camera. HDR enhances many of the photos I take on my iPhone 6.

[HantaYo]

Edouard,

I am not seeing any HDR processing in your photos.  HDR takes exposures for the shadows, exposures for the high lights, a exposure for the mid-tones and then blends the blacks and whites and mid-tones for a final pictures.  So a HDR picture you would see more detail in the shadows and high lights that in a signal picture would have been lost.  There is really no differences in the shadows and high lights of the pictures you posted.  It could be the HDR settings of your camera there is not enough exposure difference between the shadows and highlights to bring out more detail.  What are the settings for your cameras HDR?

[LesCimes]

Pretty sure the iPhone indicates when it is using HDR.
When I see HDR notice on the camera, I check both versions of the photo. Sometimes I prefer the original. Other times I don't see a difference.

[Blicj11]

iPhone HDR works best when there is a lot of contrast in what you are framing. Doesn't do anything for photos of people, but really brings out contrast in landscape photos.

[elagache]

Hi Jeff and WeatherCat Shutterbugs . . .

I am not seeing any HDR processing in your photos. 

Well, you might not see it, but sure notice it!  It takes several seconds to process an image where as taking a straight photo is instantaneous!

It could be the HDR settings of your camera there is not enough exposure difference between the shadows and highlights to bring out more detail.  What are the settings for your cameras HDR?

Definitely could be, but if so then Canon goofed.  I've been leaving the camera on the "automatic" HDR setting.  I figured that with 3 pictures it would decide on the exposure difference to use.  Apparently it isn't doing that job very well.  I do have control over the range of contrast from +/- 1 EV to +/- 3 EV.  Any suggestions on what I should try?

Like everyone else, I have noticed more of an effect using my iPhone.  On the iPhone 6 the auto HDR setting does seem to work well.  Although I do force it into HDR when the subject is in a high-contrast setting.  Photographing a car that is in between shade and sunlight will work better in HDR.

Cheers, Edouard

[Bull Winkus]

I use HDR when I'm trying to photograph someone where the light is coming from behind them, throwing their face into shadow. It brings out the detail in their face without blowing out the bright clouds in the background.

Your tree silhouette at dawn is lovely without HDR and an inappropriate use of it.

Any-hoo. That's how I roll.  YMMV

[HantaYo]

I do have control over the range of contrast from +/- 1 EV to +/- 3 EV.  Any suggestions on what I should try?

  One thing you can do is measure the stops between the shadows and your whites and then use the appropriate range.  I do this by metering the shadows, then the whites and calculating the difference.  A far easier method is to takes several photographs at different EV setting.  You should find one that captures the best dynamic range.

Here is a sample set of images (there were a total of 7) I did to create an HDR image in Photoshop.  I exposed the highlights slightly too dark and the shadows not bright enough.  The final HDR picture has been cropped and slightly straightened with a few tweaks in Lightroom.

Highlights exposure:




Shadows exposure:



Final HDR image:

[elagache]

Hi Herb, Jeff, and WeatherCat shutterbugs,

I use HDR when I'm trying to photograph someone where the light is coming from behind them, throwing their face into shadow. It brings out the detail in their face without blowing out the bright clouds in the background.

Your tree silhouette at dawn is lovely without HDR and an inappropriate use of it.

Any-hoo. That's how I roll.  YMMV

  . . . . Don't give me any grief Herb!  I just had to replace - yet another battery - in my station!  So your battery commission just keeps rollin' on! . . . . . 

Actually, I'm real close to moving my ISS transmitter and switching from solar power to the Davis AC adaptor.  So sorry Herb, your commissions are about to drop back down to where the they should be! 

One thing you can do is measure the stops between the shadows and your whites and then use the appropriate range.  I do this by metering the shadows, then the whites and calculating the difference.

Okay, I see your point.  You could get a rough estimate by zooming in to the shadows computing the exposure and then picking a brightly lit zone and seeing what the exposure difference is.

A far easier method is to takes several photographs at different EV setting.  You should find one that captures the best dynamic range.

Without knowing better, I started experimenting a bit this morning.  I took this photo underexposed by 1 EV:



This photo is underexposed by 2/3 EV and HDR set to 1 EV:



This photo is underexposed by 1 EV and HDR set to 2 EV:



Clearly I need to experiment with the camera some more.  Nonetheless thanks for the advice.  That gives me some way to "get my head" around what can be done with HDR.

Cheers, Edouard 

P.S. Great job with your HDR image that you did with Photoshop!   I now see that when you need to deal with extremes of dynamic range, a wide variation in exposures are really necessary.

[elagache]

Dear WeatherCat shutterbugs,

I've been continuing to experiment with the HDR setting on my Canon EOS 70D camera and I get the feeling you really just need to try it out and see what you get.  It is limited to no more than 3 EV, so unless that does allow you to get enough dynamic range - you are out of luck.

Yesterday, we had a relatively simple sunrise with just a simple line of cloud:



When I took the same photo with the HDR setting of 3 EV it brought out a lot more of the sunrise color:



Definitely click on the images to get the higher resolution images - otherwise the effect is hard to notice.

It seems to me that Canon has come out with a relatively crude implementation of HDR, but if you are willing to be persistent it does allow you to get additional dynamic range without the hassles of needing a tripod and post processing HDR software.

Cheers, Edouard