Using a PC case fan to aspirate your temperature/humidity probe.

[xairbusdriver]

Heat shrinking is a great method! Did you use a heat gun? I usually just blow on the tubing...

I also like "liquid" 'tape'. It comes in several colors. 'Camouflage' helps hide it from view.

[elagache]

Dear Blick, X-Air, and WeatherCat station caregivers,

Thanks for the blow by blow description and photos. Glad you are back up and aspirating.

You are most welcome!  However, I'm still behind.  I still haven't gone through the standard maintenance checklist!

Heat shrinking is a great method! Did you use a heat gun? I usually just blow on the tubing...

I bought a heat gun because I needed to make some electrical repairs on da' trusty wagon that required this level of protection.  Heat shrink tubing certainly does a better job of protecting wiring from the elements.

I also like "liquid" 'tape'. It comes in several colors. 'Camouflage' helps hide it from view.

I have some liquid tape as well, but I use it only when nothing else will work.  There are some new crimp style connectors that allow you to avoid some otherwise horrible soldering jobs.  Posi-Products makes some really neat connectors:

http://www.posi-products.com/

The one that is really the greatest improvement over the alternative is the Posi-Tap:

http://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

There are a number of situations when you need to tap into an existing wire.  These connectors do in a minute what used to take 1/2 hour of really messy soldering.  When you need to tap into an existing wire on an automobile, trying to solder in the engine bay (or worse) is very difficult  and potentially dangerous!  I'll take this smart-cookie solution over that any day! 

Cheers, Edouard 

[xairbusdriver]

trying to solder in the engine bay (or worse) is very difficult

I suspect it’s best done with the engine not running? 

[elagache]

Dear X-Air and WeatherCat FYI electricians,

trying to solder in the engine bay (or worse) is very difficult

I suspect it’s best done with the engine not running? 

Uh yeah!  That's one of first things to make sure of!  However, even with the engine off, tapping a wire can be a very miserable business.  When I retrofitted our 2000 Century (Coquette) to Phillips LED daytime running lights, the controller box needed a tap into the parking light wiring.  LED daytime running lights are supposed to dim at night, the way the controller box determines to dim the LEDs is when the parking lights are on.  Alas, the only place I could find to tap into that wire was in the right next to the plastic light housing.  Trying to manipulate a soldering iron at the edge of the engine bay with fragile plastic and potentially flammable lubricants around was not fun!     However, I did manage to make the connection.  As a result, here are the LED daytime running lights in the daytime:



Here is what they look like with the headlights on and thus the LEDs are dimmed:



I bought the same kit for my trusty wagon, but the row of LEDs looks too modern for a 50 year old car in my tastes, so I'm trying to come up with something else.  At least for my wagon I was able to use the Posi-Tap connectors so I've already got the needed tap without any soldering.

Cheers, Edouard 

[Blicj11]

Nicely done Edouard. Like Fredrico, we love you.